Bulnes: Excursion with funicular and Cabrales cheese cave in the Picos de Europa

Bulnes is the star here: a tiny mountain village reached by an eight-minute underground funicular, not by road. You get the drama of the Picos de Europa, a look at the Cares Gorge near Poncebos, and a taste of Cabrales cheese with Asturian cider all in one long day.

I like the easy access to a place that would otherwise require a mountain walk, and I like that the day connects scenery with local food rather than treating the mountains as a quick photo stop. The possible catch is the long bus ride, plus some English explanations may feel hurried when the tour runs mainly in Spanish.

Key points to know before booking

• Poncebos gives you the Cares Gorge: You pause near the start of the famous Cares Route for views of the river and steep rock walls.
• The Bulnes funicular is underground: It takes about eight minutes and offers little or no scenery during the ride.
• Bulnes has no road access or cell phone coverage: Expect cobbled lanes, traditional houses, quiet corners, and a slower pace.
• The Picu Urriellu viewpoint is a highlight: Weather and visibility affect how much of the famous peak you can see.
• Cabrales cheese comes with cider: The visit to the cheese cave explains local production before a tasting in Arenas de Cabrales.
• The day is long but well filled: It lasts about 8 to 12 hours, with transport, guided visits, free time, and lunch time in Bulnes.

Why Bulnes makes this day special

The Picos de Europa are not gentle, rounded hills. Around Poncebos, rock walls rise sharply above the Cares River, and the road threads through a mountain setting that feels far removed from Asturias’s coastal towns. The excursion uses that dramatic approach to set up its main event: Bulnes, a village tucked into the mountains and unreachable by road.

I especially like the mix of access and atmosphere. You do not need to commit to a strenuous mountain hike to reach Bulnes, but you still get the feeling of entering a remote place. The funicular handles the steep part, then you walk through the village with your guide and have free time to look around.

This is not a fast attraction with a long checklist of stops. The day is built around two strong ideas: seeing how people live in the Picos de Europa, and tasting food made in the same region. That gives the outing more substance than a simple viewpoint trip.

The bus ride through Asturias

The day begins at one of several pickup points, including the bus station in Cangas de Onís, Panadería Manín, Buendía Store, and C. Uría 58 in Oviedo. Your exact meeting point depends on the option you book, so check it carefully before setting out.

The bus ride can take about three hours on the outbound journey. That is a serious chunk of the day, but it is also when the scenery changes from town and valley roads to the mountain country around the Cares River. Small rural villages and steep slopes appear along the way.

I would not book this excursion expecting constant action. The bus is part of the tradeoff for visiting Bulnes without arranging your own mountain transport. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes, and choose clothing for changing mountain weather. The listed duration is 8 to 12 hours, so you should be ready for a full day rather than a short morning outing.

Poncebos and the Cares Gorge

Poncebos is the starting point of the celebrated Cares Route, often called the Divine Gorge. The excursion does not turn this into a full hike. Instead, you stop to take in the Cares Gorge and the river, with the rock walls providing the main spectacle.

That distinction matters. If you hoped to walk the full Cares Route, this outing will not replace it. If you simply want to see why the gorge is famous, the stop gives you a useful introduction without adding hours of walking to an already long day.

Take your time with the views here. The gorge is made by the Cares River cutting through steep stone, and the narrow setting gives the Picos their particular force. This is also a good place to listen to the guide, since the route and river help explain why the area has long been both difficult to reach and attractive to walkers.

Riding the Bulnes funicular underground

From Poncebos, you head to the lower station of the Bulnes funicular. The ride lasts about eight minutes and passes through the mountain underground. Tickets are included in the tour price, with a listed value of $26.99.

Do not expect a scenic railway ride. The funicular runs through a tunnel, so you will not watch the mountains slide past the windows. Its value is practical and atmospheric: it replaces a demanding approach on foot and delivers you quickly into Bulnes.

The train is pulled along its route by cable, so this is closer to a steep mountain funicular than to an ordinary sightseeing train. For many people, the novelty of going straight through the mountain is enough. If you want open views, save your camera for Bulnes itself and the nearby viewpoint.

Walking through Bulnes

Bulnes is the emotional center of the excursion. Once out of the station, you find a small village with cobbled streets, traditional houses, and a quiet feel that is hard to reproduce in a large resort town. There is no road access, and the lack of cell phone coverage adds to the sense that modern routines have been left below.

You get a guided tour and free time here. That combination works well. The guide can point out the chapel of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves and explain the village, then you can wander at your own pace rather than staying in a tight group for every minute.

The village is compact, but do not mistake compact for empty. The charm comes from the setting, the old-style buildings, the mountain paths, and the simple fact that cars do not pass through the center. You have guaranteed access to Bulnes for lunch, although lunch itself is not included. That gives you time to eat, but you will need to pay separately for anything you order.

A viewpoint above the village offers views toward Picu Urriellu, also known as Naranjo de Bulnes. This peak is one of Spain’s best-known mountaineering symbols. Visibility will depend on the weather, so treat the viewpoint as an opportunity rather than a promise of a clear peak.

The walking here is not described as a strenuous hike, but the tour is not suitable for people with mobility impairments or wheelchair users. Cobblestones, mountain paths, and the village’s position make sturdy, comfortable shoes important.

What the long day feels like

The itinerary gives you free time in several places, but the schedule remains structured. You travel by private bus, ride the funicular, walk through Bulnes, return by funicular, then continue by bus to the cheese cave in Arenas de Cabrales.

The return trip from Bulnes leads into another visit before the final food stop. The exact timing can stretch toward 12 hours, especially with road conditions and the different pickup and drop-off points. I would avoid planning a fixed evening reservation in Oviedo or Cangas de Onís unless you leave plenty of room.

The guide makes a real difference. Santiago, one guide named in the tour feedback, was praised for clear communication and experience with the group. English and Spanish are offered, but the language balance may vary. One English-speaking participant found that explanations were given in Spanish first and then shortened in English. At the cheese cave, English visitors may receive an iPad with translated information, and the spoken Spanish can move faster than the reading time.

That does not ruin the outing, but it is worth knowing. If you need every detail in English, ask the guide for clarification rather than assuming the translation will cover everything.

Inside the Cabrales cheese cave

The second major stop is in Arenas de Cabrales, the home area of Cabrales cheese. At the cheese cave, you learn how this strongly flavored blue cheese is made using an artisanal method passed down through generations.

The cave visit adds something the mountain views cannot. You are not just looking at Asturias; you are learning about a product tied to its climate, villages, and food traditions. The cave setting also gives the process a physical connection to the region instead of presenting it as a generic tasting-room lesson.

The guided visit lasts about an hour, including the tasting. Some of the presentation may be in Spanish, with translation support available through an iPad. You might need to read quickly or ask for a pause, particularly if the spoken explanation moves ahead of the translated text.

Cabrales is not a mild cheese. Expect a powerful flavor and a firm Asturian identity. The tasting pairs it with local cider, which is a fitting finish because both products are closely associated with the region’s food culture. Additional food and drinks are not included, so only the stated tasting is covered.

Is $81 a fair price?

At $81 per person, the tour is not a budget bus ride, but the price covers several costly pieces: round-trip private transportation, the Bulnes funicular ticket, a guided visit to Bulnes, the cheese cave visit, and the cheese and cider tasting.

The funicular ticket alone is listed at $26.99. Add the long-distance transport from Oviedo or Cangas de Onís, a guide for the full day, and the two organized visits, and the package can make sense for someone who does not want to coordinate mountain transport independently.

The value is strongest if you want to combine Bulnes and Cabrales cheese in one outing. If you only want to see Bulnes, the long bus journey and fixed schedule may feel like too much. If you are already planning a separate Picos de Europa day, compare the cost and timing before booking.

Lunch is not included, so budget for that separately. The tour provides access and time for lunch in Bulnes, but you choose and pay for your own meal.

Who should book this excursion?

I would recommend it to you if you are staying in Oviedo or Cangas de Onís and want a guided introduction to the Picos de Europa without planning mountain transport. It suits visitors who like scenery, village walks, local food, and a full day with several connected stops.

It is also a good fit if you want to see Bulnes but do not want to hike up to it. The funicular removes the hardest access problem, while the walk in the village remains manageable for people who are comfortable on uneven ground.

You may want another plan if you need wheelchair access, have serious mobility limits, or dislike long bus rides. The excursion also may frustrate you if you expect a fully English-led experience at every stop. English is available, but some explanations can be brief or supported by written material instead.

Final verdict on the Bulnes and Cabrales day

I like this excursion because it connects three parts of Asturias that belong together: the Cares Gorge, the isolated village of Bulnes, and Cabrales cheese with cider. The scenery is the main draw, but the food visit gives the day a local finish and helps explain how people in this mountain area use what the region provides.

The biggest drawback is the length. Three hours on the outbound bus, a return journey, and several organized stops require patience. Still, if you have one free day and want a practical, guided taste of the Picos de Europa, $81 is a reasonable price for the transport, funicular, guide, village access, cave visit, and tasting.

Book it if you value convenience and variety. Skip it if you want a serious hike, a slow independent visit, or guaranteed detailed English interpretation at every stop.

FAQ

How long does the Bulnes and Cabrales cheese excursion last?

The tour lasts about 8 to 12 hours, depending on the selected departure and the day’s schedule.

Where can I join the excursion?

Pickup options include the bus station in Cangas de Onís, Panadería Manín, Buendía Store, and C. Uría 58 in Oviedo. The exact meeting point depends on the option booked.

Is the Bulnes funicular ticket included?

Yes. The round-trip funicular ticket is included in the excursion price.

How long is the funicular ride?

The funicular ride takes about eight minutes and runs underground through the mountain.

Is lunch included?

No. You have guaranteed access to Bulnes for lunch, but food and drinks beyond the stated cheese and cider tasting are not included.

What languages are available?

The live guide service is available in English and Spanish. Some content may be presented in its original language, and English information at the cheese cave may be provided through an iPad.

Is the tour suitable for wheelchair users?

No. The excursion is not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility impairments.

Can I cancel the booking?

You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. The reserve-now, pay-later option is also available.